Paddling into the Unknown: SSV’s Inaugural Ross Sea Expedition
In January 2025, adventurous paddlers joined SSV’s inaugural Ross Sea Antarctica Expedition Cruise, a once-in-a-lifetime voyage primarily based aboard the Heritage Adventurer. While most explored the Ross Sea’s remote landscapes from the ship, a select group opted for an extra challenge – an exclusive kayaking program that allowed them to paddle through icy waters, weaving through towering icebergs and encountering Antarctic wildlife up close. Led by senior guide Elijah Newton, this journey delivered breathtaking experiences, from navigating brash ice to paddling alongside penguins and whales.
Paddle Log – Ross Sea Expedition – January 2025
9/1/25 – Stewart Island Paddle – The First Paddle
7.5km | 3 hours | Max 10kt E | No swell | Seas under 0.5m
A perfect way to begin our paddling adventure—calm water, protected shallow coves, and dense overhanging forest. On this paddle, we dedicated time to familiarizing ourselves with our equipment, understanding how we paddle together as a group, and communicating on the water. After refining some basic paddling skills, we were off to explore.
The occasional light headwind (roughly 10kt) gave us some bumpy water as we jumped from bay to bay and island to island.
A great first outing.
10/1/25 – The Snares – An Unforgettable Paddle
3.5km | 2.5 hours | 10-15kt W | W swell to 1m | Seas 0m
Around a tiny rock in the middle of the Southern Ocean, you would expect a rough sea. But not today. We were graced with light wind and small swell to explore this true paddling paradise.
We began our paddle beside towering cliffs and New Zealand fur seals, paddled into sea caves so deep we had to get out a head torch to see what lay in the dark depths, and cruised through giant rock tunnels with water so clear we could see over 20m down.
Around every corner, Snares crested penguins encircled us by the thousands! The smiles on the faces of each kayaker watching penguins dive under their kayaks were very special to see.
After being spooked by a very curious fur seal, we continued around the rocky coast.
We arrived at a giant cutaway in the rocks, creating a narrow sea channel between towering cliffs. We surfed the surges through the channel so dense with bull kelp that Fiona decided to name it “Spaghetti Junction.”
On the other side of this channel, we spotted nesting Buller’s albatross.
Continuing into the next rocky bay, we were greeted by thousands of Snares crested penguins riding their “penguin slide” into the cool water. We could have sat here for hours watching the penguins waddle up and down the steep rocky slide—either heading to their feeding grounds or back to their nests—but the ship was ready to move on, and so we followed suit, hopping back into our Zodiac and zooming back to the ship.
12/1/25 – Macquarie/Lusitania Bay – A Bonus Paddle
1.5km | 1 hour | 5-10kt W | Swell SE to 1m inshore | Seas 0m
After a windy and wet morning exploring the King and Royal Penguin colonies of Macquarie Island, we couldn’t resist taking an opportunity as the wind settled and the sun came out late in the day.
After dinner, we donned our drysuits and went out for a paddle in Lusitania Bay.
We weaved our way between the bull kelp-covered rock gardens with a light rolling swell breaking around us.
On our left was a King Penguin colony, an estimated 200,000 strong!! We continued paddling until we were surrounded by the Kings—around us, under us, everywhere!
We sat and soaked up the special experience for a long while before continuing on between the rocks and kelp.
Not a long paddle, but a special one for sure. Thank you, King Penguins. Thank you, Macquarie!
Now for the crossing.
18/1/25 – Sea Ice Mission – in the middle of the Ross Sea
2.5km | 5-10kt S | Swell SE to 1m | Seas 0m
Cruising 50km offshore in the Ross Sea, fringing a dense flow of sea ice.
We spotted an opportunity—the sea ice opened up. Gaps between the floes were just big enough to fit Zodiacs and kayaks.
We dropped the kayaks into the water and weaved our way deeper and deeper into the endless maze of sea ice. We slotted through icy gaps, listening to the sounds of the swell lapping against the icy overhangs and watching Adélie penguins porpoising onto and off little floes.
The sea was perfectly calm. Hardly a breath of wind, a hint of rolling swell, and total stillness.
Then, out of nowhere, one kayaker in a single kayak had a momentary lapse in concentration and swiftly flipped his kayak over.
The first capsize! A good time to feel the icy waters of the Ross Sea, tucked in a cul-de-sac of ice.
He rolled out laughing as we flipped his kayak and helped him back in, and put on a dry beanie.
“Are you cold?”
“No.”
“Are you sure?!”
Thank goodness for drysuits!
We continued on for a while longer before heading back to the ship.
19/1/25 – Terranova Bay – Big Cliffs & Katabatic Winds
6km | Start: 10-15kt NE | End: 20-40kt NW | Swell E to 1m | Seas to 1m
We launched below the “Gondwana” German Research Station in the lee of the land. Calm seas and a slight rolling swell. We paddled around the rocky coast under towering cliffs and gulches. Adélie penguins and crabeater seals rested on the nearby sea ice.
We continued south, hopping from bay to bay. The cliffs fringed the entire coast at an intimidating height, with ice floes pouring out of every valley.
We passed a waterfall of melting ice, pouring from a floe 70m high on the cliffs.
We continued rock-hopping our way west along the coast when we got hit by a light katabatic wind. Beginning suddenly in light puffs then within seconds, we were faced with significant gusts rolling off the ice. We held our position and waited for a small gap in the gusts. The lull arrived, and we all turned swiftly left, back the way we came. And now, we surfed!
We flew downwind, aiming to tuck into the lee of a cliff point a short distance away.
Looking behind us, we saw even stronger katabatic winds on the way!
As we surfed, a skua came to inspect us. It flew over each of our heads, only 1m above. Was it trying to land? Attack? Just curious?
It flew much too close for comfort, with talons exposed, right above one paddler’s head. Time to get off the water!
We made our way to a perfectly protected lee point and waited for our Zodiac extraction, speeding toward us.
All of a sudden, we were back on board, having a cup of tea and excitedly telling the story.
19/1/25 – Drygalski Ice Tongue – Ice Cliffs & Whiteout
3km | 1.5 hours | Wind <5kt
A surprise after-dinner excursion. We cruise along the towering Drygalski Ice Tongue, admiring its sheer majesty. The near-perfect conditions outside make it impossible to resist—we have to get out on the water and experience the ice tongue up close.
We crane the kayaks onto the water and launch. Looking back, we spot a wall of fog rolling in. We paddle east, tracing the ice edge, the landscape both beautiful and imposing. Suddenly, we are completely engulfed—a full whiteout. Visibility shrinks to just 50 meters. The icy cliffs fade away, leaving only us, alone on the frozen sea.
Then, we find a playground—bergy bits, growlers, and brash ice scattered before us. We weave through, zigzagging between chunks of ice, laughing and grinning, reveling in the surreal stillness. Just us, immersed in a total whiteout, in near-perfect conditions.
It couldn’t possibly get any better. But then—a zodiac emerges from the mist, a makeshift cafe on board serving warming cups of delightful beverages! We raft up, sipping the spiced warmth as the icy sea shifts around us. Absolute magic.
20/1/25 – Cape Evans – Fast Ice, Penguins & a Hut
3.5km | 1.5 hours | Wind <10kt
Cape Evans—home to Scott’s Hut. As passengers are ferried ashore in groups to explore the historic site, we take the opportunity to explore the sea first, by kayak.
We launch quickly, paddling south into Erebus Bay. A strong fast-ice edge stretches before us, and we decide to follow its line. The current is light, running at roughly 1.5 knots—just enough to carry us along with ease. Adelie penguins dot the ice, leaping in and out of the water around us, a constant flurry of movement.
We glide south, soaking in the vast expanse of fast ice, the penguins, and the smooth, effortless paddling—careful not to get caught in the ice’s edge. Ahead, a cluster of zodiacs lingers near the ice. A call goes out—Minke whales! But we see nothing. The zodiacs scan the horizon before speeding off, leaving us in quiet solitude.
Then, suddenly, the Minkes appear—surfacing just 100 meters ahead. Beautiful.
We continue for a while before our time is up. Turning away from the ice edge, we paddle into the current, the low sun straight ahead at our 12 o’clock. As we prepare to stop, a final surprise—a Weddell seal, lounging on the surface. A perfect sight to end our paddle.
With that, we climb into the zodiac, head back for dinner, and then, at last, go to see Scott’s Hut.
22/1/25 – Cape Royds – Volcanic Cliffs & Shackleton’s Hut
7.5km | 1 hour | NW 10-15kt | Swell 1m
A cold morning paddle before exploring Shackleton’s Hut.
We jump into the zodiac and travel just south of the fast-moving drift ice. Launching from the water, we ride the currents south along the volcanic cliffs. An impressive rock spire looms ahead, and we weave through sea ice dotted with Adélie penguins, their calls echoing across the frozen expanse.
Eight kilometers south of the ship, we reach the Barne Glacier ice edge. As we move southwest along the icy cliffs, the clapotis kicks in, the water surging and rebounding off the frozen wall. We follow the ice edge before heading offshore to meet our zodiac support.
Back on board, we warm up, prepare for our landing, and set off to explore Shackleton’s Hut.
22/1/25 – Fast Ice – Emperors & Orcas
4km | 1 hour | NE <10kt
Today, we opted to take our kayaks along the fast-ice edge of McMurdo Sound, hoping for sightings of orcas and emperor penguins.
The wind was light and onshore, with no swell—just a gentle clapotis from the sea state reverberating off the ice edge. We paddled west, following emperor penguins and Adélies as they waddled, ran, and slid alongside us. We laughed as they comically hopped over cracks in the fast ice, their movements both clumsy and endearing.
After about an hour, we climbed back into the zodiac—just as the orcas arrived. Sitting in the boat, we found ourselves surrounded from every angle, even beneath us—an unforgettable moment.
A quick landing on the fast ice, a glass of mulled wine in hand, and then it was time to return to the ship.
This paddle, at 77°48’S 165°44’E, must be one of the most—if not the most—southerly sea kayak outings known to man.
23/1/25 – Cape Bird – Lost in Drift Ice
5km | 2 hours | Wind <10kt
With a small group of paddlers, we set out from Cape Bird, searching for the perfect place to explore. The best plan? To lose ourselves in the drifting fields of sea ice just offshore.
We load into the kayaks and begin our course, weaving toward chunks of ice teeming with Adélie penguins. They watch us as we watch them. We push deeper into the ice, squeezing through any gap we can fit through—if we had tracked our course by GPS, it would look completely random and chaotic! Hopping through narrow leads into pockets of open water—pure joy.
With a rough goal of reaching a towering iceberg near the shore, we continue on. Along the way, we spot a Weddell seal lounging on a floating ice slab and paddle closer for a look. Passing the iceberg, we follow the edge toward a bustling penguin colony onshore.
An incredible paddle! By the time we had to pull out, none of us wanted to leave. Paddling through drifting sea ice has to be one of the most beautiful and fun environments to explore.
24/1/25 – Franklin Island – Volcanic Cliffs & Penguins
4-7km | 1.5-2.5 hours | Wind E 10-14kt
Today, we were lucky enough to paddle Franklin Island—perhaps the first people ever to do so.
We launched near the southern point of the island, paddling south into rolling easterly swells. Grounded icebergs and towering volcanic cliffs, eroded by time, loomed around us. Turning north, we caught the swells, surfing our way back. The scale of the landscape was overwhelming—nature’s artwork etched into the volcanic layers. High up on the cliffs, thousands of tiny penguins dotted the rock, an impressive feat for a bird with webbed feet.
As we neared the low-lying penguin colony, the sheer abundance of life was staggering—thousands of Adélie penguins, Weddell seals lining the beach, skuas and giant petrels feasting on fallen birds. We paddled slowly, capturing photos as penguins surrounded us.
Rounding a corner, we spotted an unusual sight—an Adélie penguin had somehow jumped into an anchored zodiac. We laughed as it waddled about, inspecting us as curiously as we watched it.
Half the group opted to land and explore the colony on foot, while the rest of us continued paddling north along an ice cliff. Snow began to fall. Brash ice thickened around us, and we found ourselves forging paths through the frozen maze, enveloped in a world of ice and snow.
Another monumental paddle.
27/1/25 – Balleny Islands – The Next Challenge
6.5km | 2 hours | Wind 10-15kt | Swell NW to 1.5m & SE to 1m. Seas to 1m
The Balleny Islands are not to be taken lightly—remote Antarctic islands, fully exposed to the deep Southern Ocean. A place accustomed to towering seas and unforgiving conditions. How lucky we were to arrive on a day calm enough to paddle. Though in the Ballenys, calm is relative—swell from opposing directions, clapotis rebounding off every cliff face, and a steady wind with plenty of fetch to add to the mix.
We launched at the southeast end of Buckle Island, beneath towering, eroded volcanic cliffs. Rounding the southern tip, we prepared for a 1.5km crossing to Sabrina Island. Over the past three weeks, the team had been building up to a paddle like this—well-prepared and in good spirits, we pressed on through the choppy, rolling seas.
Swell crashed against the shores of Sabrina as we paddled east toward Chinstrap Island, weaving through rock, reef, and waves. Penguins everywhere. Vivid algae streaked the snow-capped rock peaks, adding a surreal splash of color to the stark landscape.
We continued south, pausing beneath The Monument—a towering volcanic spire—before climbing back into the zodiac and returning to the ship.
A truly epic paddle.
31/1/25 – Campbell Island – Lunch under the Loneliest Tree
10km | 4 hours | Wind W 15kt
With lunch, hot drinks, and poo bags packed, we set out for a full morning of exploration.
We paddled deep into Perseverance Harbour, on the east side of Campbell Island. Forested coastline, swaying kelp forests, New Zealand sea lions, Campbell cormorants, and a lone penguin—a tranquil, almost meditative paddle.
Gliding into Tucker Cove, we spotted a lone moulting king penguin, while curious sea lions swam circles around us. From there, we made our way to Venus Bay, through Garden Cove, and finally to Camp Cove, where we landed. Pulling up our kayaks, we carefully made our way past a sea lion harem to visit the Loneliest Tree in the World. A cup of tea, a few biscuits, and the quiet satisfaction of keeping this solitary tree some company. A stream babbled beside us, and we sat beneath its branches, looking out over the sea lions, still waters, and Mt. Honey in the distance.
Then—unexpected excitement. A small surge rolled into the bay, and one kayak decided it had spent enough time on land. A quick kayak rescue mission later, and we were back to our coffee.
Packing up, we set off on a downwind run to Shoal Point, aiming to spot a sea lion haul-out site. To our surprise, the sea lions had moved just inland. We could hear them, see where they had been, but only one lone male emerged from the shrubs.
Back to the ship for a quick costume change—then off to land, walking among Campbell and grey-headed albatross.
the Final Paddle – Enderby to Rose Island
6.5km | Wind W 15-30kt
A windy day, but with near-perfect protection—most of the time.
We launched from the western corner of Sandy Bay, where Yuri pointed out a cave he insisted we had to paddle into. Entering, we moved through 20 meters of darkness before emerging into a hidden sinkhole—an open-roof chamber with a secret fern garden. Light rain filtered through the canopy above. A special place, accessible only by kayak.
Continuing south, we wove in and out of every cave and gulch we could find, even attempting to paddle through rock gardens so thick with bull kelp that we had to use our hands to pull ourselves through.
Hoiho (yellow-eyed penguins), New Zealand sea lions, and vibrant algae and lichen painted the cliffs around us.
Reaching the southern tip of Enderby, we assessed the crossing to Rose Island—and decided to go for it. Pushing forward, we ferry-glided across, feeling the rolling swells and wind as we moved. Flying downwind along Rose’s northeast coast, we listened to the fluted choir of bellbirds echoing from the Rātā forest.
A perfect place to sit in silence—surrounded by bull kelp, the calls of the birds carrying on the wind.
A stunning way to finish an extraordinary trip.
A Journey Like No Other
From New Zealand’s subantarctic islands to the icy reaches of the Ross Sea, this expedition was one for the ages! For those seeking adventure at the ends of the Earth, the next Ross Sea Expedition awaits. Want to join the next adventure? Contact us to learn more about upcoming trips with SSV or visit our trip page:
